Raven Watching at the Tower 2024

Photograph of Tower of London raven on the tower wall with Tower Bridge in the background

The Tower of London is a familiar place to me.

Not, I’m happy to say, because I’ve languished in one of the many dungeons, but from annual holidays to London to visit my grandparents when I was a kid. A trip to the Tower was always on the agenda, leading to a well-worn family joke that we had to call the Bloody Tower the Woody Tower to avoid swearing. The joke was all the funnier having been made by my dad, an inveterate curser.

As you can see from the photo below, I can get overwhelmed by too much sightseeing.

I’m still the same today; I love touring galleries, museums and ancient buildings — to a point. Once that point is reached I need to spend time outside, looking at birds, sky and green things, or I get whiney. Just ask Phillip.

That’s how I came to meet the York Ghost Merchant, but that’s another story for another blog post …

Photograph of Tower of London raven Jubilee's blue-banded foot on a Tower bench

A morning at the Tower is perfect for me because I don’t need to go into any of the buildings, having toured them all before; I just spend a few hours on my own wandering the grounds and catching up with Tower ravens I’ve met before and getting to know some of the newcomers.

Photograph of the Tower of London inside the walls with Tower Bridge in the distanc

According to the Tower of London website, there are currently seven ravens living at the Tower — Jubilee, Harris, Poppy, Georgie, Edgar, Branwen and Rex.

Photograph of the White Tower within the Tower of London walls

On the day I was at the Tower, it seemed to be Poppy, Georgie and and Jubilee’s turn for tourist entertaining duties. I did glimpse a couple of the others, but they were mostly having a quiet day out of the limelight while the three I mentioned were holding court between the White Tower and the Jewel House.

This is the beautiful Poppy, who wears a red leg band.

Photograph of Poppy, one of the Tower of London ravens standing on a railing

The first time I met her, back in 2019, she had a bit of a shoe fetish, pecking at the footwear of numerous startled tourists. Five years later, she still seems to like interacting with the human visitors, but with less of a foot focus.

Close-up profile photograph of Tower of London raven Poppy

Profile photograph of Tower of London raven, Poppy preening

Poppy preening

Above: Poppy pacing and flapping on the Tower parapets. I’m not sure if she was considering flying off to see the wider world, but you can see that her wings are clipped, discouraging longer journeys.

Photograph of Poppy, a Tower of London raven, standing on a bench and looking at the photographer

Her Poppyship

Next, I met Jubilee who’s been at the Tower since 2012. I didn’t “meet” him on my 2019 visit so I really enjoyed spending time watching him this year. He wears a blue leg band.

Close-up photograph of Tower of London raven Jubilee

Very close-up photograph of Tower of London raven Jubilee's eye with Jewel House reflected in it

You can see the Jewel House is reflected in his eye and, while it IS the stated role of the ravens to protect all things royal, I can’t help wondering if his mischievous mind occasionally turns to the logistics of a heist. Some of those sparkly things would look mighty fine in a raven’s nest …

Photograph of Tower of London raven Jubilee with head twisted upside down while preening

When not considering raven larceny, Jubilee likes to show off his contortionist’s skills.

Above: Jubilee takes a few quiet raven moments

Close up photograph of Tower of London raven Jubilee preening his feathers

Making sure his feathers look their best

Photograph of Tower of London raven, Jubilee, sitting on the back of a bench next to a tourist

Like most of the Tower ravens, Jubilee seems to consider the human visitors just part of the furniture

Profile photograph of Tower of London raven, Jubilee calling

Jubilee makes an announcement

Jubilee is rarely alone, having bonded with a younger Tower raven, Georgie. She was born at the Tower in 2019 and I heard one of the tour guides mention that she and Jubilee are inseparable.

Photograph of Tower of London ravens, Jubilee and Georgie on a wall with Yeoman Warders in the background

Indeed, for most of the time I was at the Tower the two of them were not only close together, but also conducting intimate musical conversations. They made their clacking duets frequently while I was there, ignoring the river of human conversation going on all around them.

Photograph of Tower of London ravens, Jubilee and Georgie on a wall with Tower Guard hut

Georgie wears a pink leg band

Photograph of Tower of London ravens, Jubilee and Georgie on a wall with tourists photographing them in the background

She does a little posing for the tourists on her own

Another Jubilee and Georgie duet, this one conducted with the accompaniment of an occasional whistle from a tourist eager for them to turn his way for a photo.

Damn paparazzi!

By now, I’d overheard the tour guides relating the harrowing details of Ann Boleyn’s beheading  one too many times, and thought the ravens could probably do with one less photographer vying for their attention, so it was time to say farewell.

I didn’t meet the new Raven Master as he was a bit busy …

Photograph of Tower of London Yeoman Warder addressing a crowd of tourists

I did meet the old Raven Master, Chris Skaife, on my last visit and I’d hoped to chat with him again this time but, unfortunately, it was his day off. Better planning needed for my next trip!

I left Jubilee and Georgie still posing for the tourists … and still in front of the Jewel House.

Keep an eye out for Great Raven Jewel Heist headlines in the near future …

Photograph of Tower of London ravens, Jubilee and Georgie on a wall with tourists photographing them in the background

Photograph of Tower of London ravens, Jubilee and Georgie on a wall with Yeoman Warders in the background

OK, you distract the Yeoman warders and I’ll just swoop in …

 

I have made a small collection of prints from some of the photographs taken at the Tower of London earlier this year. Let me know if there are others you’d like to see as prints!

SHOP TOWER OF LONDON RAVEN PRINTS >

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Raven Watching at the Tower of London

Watching the ravens: amazing.

Meeting the Ravenmaster: fabulous.

Watching the ravens and tourists interact: priceless.

We were a bit jet lagged for our Tower trip (first morning in the UK) and I was still trying to figure out how to use my new, tiny, and infinitely complicated,  travel camera. But with only two days in London, it was time to dive right in!

If you’re planning a trip to the Tower of London,  tip number one would be to get there as early in the day as you can. This is a massively popular tourist attraction and, while the first hour or so were relatively quiet, the place fills up fast!

My childhood included annual trips to the Tower of London when we came down from Newcastle to visit my grandparents.  A standing family joke was that we shouldn’t call it the Bloody Tower because “that’s swearing.” Somewhat ironic, coming from our dear Dad! Our jovial family name for it was the Woody Tower. 

I do remember ravens on those trips, but they were secondary to the haunting tales of imprisonment, intrigue, mystery and murder that have always permeated those ancient walls.

This time though, my priority was clear — ravens, ravens and more ravens.

Phillip, who had never been to the Tower before, was determined to see it all — the Crown Jewels, and every tower, gate and courtyard.  I set off in search of the ravens and their “master.”

I started off at the raven enclosure. Poppy* (one of the younger Tower ravens) was posing on top.

NOTE: Thanks to my online friend, Samantha, who is a volunteer with the ravens at the Tower and who helped me identify them retroactively from the colour combinations of the bands on their legs. I think Sam can tell them apart just from knowing them so well, but the banding code is handy for me, the Tower Raven neophyte. 

Just like the ravens I’ve watched in the West Coast mountains, Poppy was starting her day by getting all those magnificent feathers in order. Must look one’s best for the visitors.

And speaking of the visitors, I had almost as much fun listening to their comments about the ravens, as I did watching the ravens themselves.

“Good grief, these crows are enormous,” “how did they all get out of their cages?” were a couple of entertaining things I overheard.

Poppy is particularly keen on interfacing with the public — mostly, it would seem, because she has a bit of a shoe fixation. Watching peoples’ reaction to having their footwear inspected by a raven was very entertaining. Of course, I was kind of thrilled when she had a bit of a peck at my shoes. Others were a bit less sure.

Poppy seemed to be available for selfies …

… but it turned out there was a fee for service.

She was very curious about this man’s hair and they had a genial encounter.

Time for some more preening …

And off to check out some more footwear.

So many to choose from!

I probably could have just watched Poppy all day. In fact, I was so fascinated by her I didn’t really notice that George, the Tower’s very newest raven, was inside the enclosure having a rat for brunch. He’s one of four baby ravens born at the Tower earlier this year. I did take a picture of him, but since I hadn’t had time to figure out the manual focus on my new fangled new camera, he’s just a blur behind the perfectly focused enclosure mesh. 🙁

But there were lots more ravens to see. Here, for example is Jubilee — looking rather magnificent on an ancient parapet.

Jubilee was also a regular guard by the the Jewel House (where the Crown Jewels are housed.)

Looking slightly less magnificent as he does a bit of a feather shuffle …

But pulling himself together in time to make an important announcement.

Here’s Jubilee again, looking utterly at home among the throngs of tourists, completely unfazed by the paparazzi.

One more announcement …

The next raven is Erin (my friend, Samantha’s special buddy at the Tower). Here she is looking terribly official on the multi-lingual warning sign, “Caution, Ravens May Bite.”

Here she is again, in a slightly less official capacity …

It looks a bit as if the Yeoman Warder’s arm in the poster is reaching out to stop her …

A small child was yelling at her that this was a naughty thing to do, but Erin clearly feels that littering rules do not apply to her.

Erin strikes a pose with some more ravenly gravitas …

By now, almost six hours of raven watching had gone by. Phillip had explored everywhere and it was time to leave. I was a bit disappointed that our wanderings hadn’t turned up the Ravenmaster himself, but I was still really happy with my visit.

But luck was smiling upon us.

Not only did we run into Chris Skaife (AKA The Ravenmaster) — he was momentarily not surrounded by fans. In fact, he was all on his own until he gave a signal to his special raven friend, Merlina, who flew directly over to join us.

Having read his book and followed him online, I was thrilled to meet him in person and I can now confirm that he’s just as nice a man as you’d expect him to be. We managed to have a short chat about the amazing personalities of the ravens, the enormous value of  nature in an urban setting, and about his efforts to move away from the closely manicured landscaping traditions at the Tower to a slightly wilder, more creature-friendly environment. We were very lucky to get to talk to him for 10 or 15 minutes (time flew by) before he was once again deluged by other visitors.

You’ll notice that I was (of course) carrying my raven bag.

Bye, bye, Merlina — till next time.

This is moments after we left, so you can see how lucky we were to get the Ravenmaster (and Merlina)  to ourselves for a few moments.

So day one of our UK trip was amazing and , as it turned out, was just the start of four action-packed weeks of fun. More blog posts to come!

PS  — on another note, the 2020 City Crow Calendar is almost ready to go the the printer. I’ll let you know when it’s available on the web site. I sold out again last year, so it’s always a good idea to get one early!